An Ode to Anna Sui and my other thoughts on #NYFW

Fashion week dictates the birth of new trends and therefore concept and authenticity is everything. The trends I spotted were bare midriffs (cropped is here to stay) lots of leather and generally a very androgynous presence was felt on the runways (BCBG Max Azria, Alexander Wang and Rag & Bone), lots of shirts, collars and trouser suits. It was all very 1990’s with DKNY’s Monogram tracksuits and various designers flannel shirts a la Zach Morris.

This reflected what is happening in fashion now but Anna Sui’s collection was a breath of fresh air to me. Although it is not my style, fashion week is about taking inspiration from the extremities that adorn the catwalk and I can certainly do that! Her collection was beautiful, feminine and hippie like, “Everything is flecked with antique gold, or shot with peacock shades of metallic thread … an entire enchanted forest filled with sparrows and songbirds, blooming with poppies, water lilies, sunflowers … embroideries and antique wallpaper patterns reproduced photographically in digital prints,” she said in her notes. I love how Sui’s collections are always timeless and youthful, the fact that she doesn’t feel pressurised to follow trends is what allows her to set them and gives her clothes that timeless quality. She infused a little bit of the 1960s, seemingly her favourite fashion era, to her new romantic vision. There were shifts and vests, tapestry bags, gladiator sandals and Balinese headdresses. She had a lot of shape and movement to her collection, lots of asymmetric cuts and tassels which added to that hippy sense of freedom.

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I anticipated a real show with Betsey Johnson and wasn’t disappointed, the models skipped and danced down the runway in their pink wigs and floral frills, I loved the wedge trainers and of course the Tulle dresses were beautiful however variety adds spice to life and sadly it was 5 garments in different fabrics so the spice was missing.

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Oscar De La Renta WOWED me, I absolutely loved his beautiful expression of springtime femininity, the crocheted tops, polka dots, frills and delicate tulle layers were all fresh, flirty and feminine.

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I felt Charlotte Ronsons was the most ready-to-wear collection with every piece having versatility. I loved the cropped trousers with side-slits and the jumpsuits were great with collars and clean cuts to attend to the androgynous demand.

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Noon By Noor Spring 2014 Collection #NYFW

Having recently spotted Noon by Noors collection in Dubai Mall’s Harvey Nichols, I was excited to see what the girls had created for Spring 2014 and their collection was definitely a highlight of New York fashion week.

“Spring 2014 is a continuation on from Resort but this season the collection is more polished and sophisticated with hints of that playfulness from the previous season,” described Shaikha Noor.

The show kicked off with some pretty strange colour combinations but as it went on they quickly redeemed themselves with bold colour-blocking on beautiful iridescent fabrics.

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odd combinations before the show was tuned to perfection

Floral and leaf prints inspired by Bahrain’s Tree of Life were the concept behind this elegant and sophisticated collection of dresses, jackets and skirts.

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I particularly loved the first maxi that made an appearance, the delicate silk and movement had a beautiful jellyfish-like quality. I also loved the silver toned silk shirt combined with the purple leather skirt, they worked so well together, not just the colours but the way the harsh purple leathers presence made the silk look even more delicate. Another favourite was the flourescent orange combined with the midnight blue hotpants that were adorned with gorgeous silk flowers.

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The star of the show was most definitely the final piece, a cropped white top with a maxi skirt embellished with white silk flowers that merged into black flowers with a crystal centre in an ombre style placement.

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Rami Al Ali’s New Collection

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Courtesy Rami Al Ali

Rami Al Ali’s  just showcased his beautiful new collection in Paris. It is comprised of 26 floor length, A-line gowns with high necklines and cinched waists. The colours are mostly deep blues and purples and are broken up by neutral browns and beiges. He used light and heavy fabrics , “I wanted to encapsulate femininity through flowing gowns while adding an edge with more dramatic, structured pieces”.

His collection was inspired by Gustav Klimt, “I’m a huge fan of his work and similarly to myself his pieces embody the female form, which is something I always strive to incorporate into my designs. The artist also had a real eye for detail, which is a strong part of my own design aesthetic and can be seen throughout the collection with Klimt-inspired graphics.