Fashion week dictates the birth of new trends and therefore concept and authenticity is everything. The trends I spotted were bare midriffs (cropped is here to stay) lots of leather and generally a very androgynous presence was felt on the runways (BCBG Max Azria, Alexander Wang and Rag & Bone), lots of shirts, collars and trouser suits. It was all very 1990’s with DKNY’s Monogram tracksuits and various designers flannel shirts a la Zach Morris.
This reflected what is happening in fashion now but Anna Sui’s collection was a breath of fresh air to me. Although it is not my style, fashion week is about taking inspiration from the extremities that adorn the catwalk and I can certainly do that! Her collection was beautiful, feminine and hippie like, “Everything is flecked with antique gold, or shot with peacock shades of metallic thread … an entire enchanted forest filled with sparrows and songbirds, blooming with poppies, water lilies, sunflowers … embroideries and antique wallpaper patterns reproduced photographically in digital prints,” she said in her notes. I love how Sui’s collections are always timeless and youthful, the fact that she doesn’t feel pressurised to follow trends is what allows her to set them and gives her clothes that timeless quality. She infused a little bit of the 1960s, seemingly her favourite fashion era, to her new romantic vision. There were shifts and vests, tapestry bags, gladiator sandals and Balinese headdresses. She had a lot of shape and movement to her collection, lots of asymmetric cuts and tassels which added to that hippy sense of freedom.
I anticipated a real show with Betsey Johnson and wasn’t disappointed, the models skipped and danced down the runway in their pink wigs and floral frills, I loved the wedge trainers and of course the Tulle dresses were beautiful however variety adds spice to life and sadly it was 5 garments in different fabrics so the spice was missing.
Oscar De La Renta WOWED me, I absolutely loved his beautiful expression of springtime femininity, the crocheted tops, polka dots, frills and delicate tulle layers were all fresh, flirty and feminine.
I felt Charlotte Ronsons was the most ready-to-wear collection with every piece having versatility. I loved the cropped trousers with side-slits and the jumpsuits were great with collars and clean cuts to attend to the androgynous demand.